By: Jed Zimmerman

PICTURE #1 Front view of the original panel condition of my 1958 Ford Thunderbird HardTop showing extreme unsalvageable deteriorated condition.

PICTURE #2 Rear view of the original panel showing warped, broken, rotted and mildewed hardboard panel.

PICTURE #3 The original black rubber armrest pads had inserts or supports made of a molded and pressed cardboard. These support inserts were damaged and deteriorated and the rubber had become brittle and deformed from age and heat.

Step #1 - The rubber pads were reformed with a combination of carved polystyrene and upholstery foam to take the shape as close to original as possible. Then the rubber pads were glued onto a flat board in order to maintain the support and original shape.

Step #2 - The rubber arm rests now could be used as a male mold to receive an evenly coated with a layer of Plaster of Paris, approximately ¾" thick. Once the plaster is cured, the rubber male mold is separated from the new plaster female mold. HINT: before plastering, cover the rubber mold form with saran wrap, which will enable easier separation of the plaster female mold from the rubber male mold.

Step#3 - De-slag the new female mold and remove all sharp edges, burrs and smooth all interior edge surfaces. Once trimmed and smoothed to the desired degree, again line the female mold with saran wrap and lay in one layer of fiberglass cloth of medium thickness ensuring the cloth overlaps all the mold form edges by 3 inches or so. In order to accommodate the internal curvatures of the mold form in order to smooth the cloth flat, several partial cuts, tucks and folds may be required to shape the cloth flat to the inside of the mold.

Step #4 - Either polyester resins or epoxy resins will work for the coating of the cloth. I use epoxy resins of the Goudgen Bros. West Systems brand name because of its permanent durability, working and curing properties, plus the fact that I always have my epoxy supply box fully stocked with associated epoxy tools, resin and hardener, microballoons, fillers, saran wrap, tape, etc. Epoxy also gives longer working time taking up to 4 hours before it hardens which allows for controlling the cloth and resin in the mold while curing. Polyester flashes off in about 15 minutes and once it goes off, you're stuck with what you have. The flash of epoxy can be speeded up and controlled by heat also. I'd recommend a halogen tripod lamp about 8 inches >from the work to evenly distribute heat to the mold. With a halogen lamp you can flash epoxy in 20 to 30 minutes. But before you put the heat on it, make sure you have your resin soaked cloth exactly as you want it to cure in the mold.

In order to keep the cloth arranged to the mold smooth and in place at the flanges and curves, use strips of 2 inch masking tape or duct tape to secure it. Apply the tape directly to the resin soaked cloth. After the initial flash cure or hardening of the epoxy (4 hours without a heat source, or 30 minutes with a heat source), simply remove the tape. If you miss the tape removal at this time and can't get it off till the next day, it's still fairly easy to remove, but some may stick. Don't worry because your new armrest form will be upholstered anyway.

Step #5 - Once the mold has cured separate the fiberglass form from the plaster mold, trim the flanges to one inch all the way around. Then sand with 80 grit paper and do any rough shaping with a ½ round file. Any thin spots or holes you've made from sanding and filing should take a 2nd coat of resin mixed with faring compound filler or small sections of cloth. Put a smooth finish final resin coat over the exterior of the new arm rest form. After it cures final sand with 80 or 100 grit paper.

PICTURE #4 Step #1 - Using the old hardboard door panels as templates as best you can trace and transfer the panel pattern outline with all holes and cutouts to an equal size piece of Kraft paper or multiple brown paper bags cut and masking taped together. First cut out the perimeter outline of the pattern and fit it up to the door surface masking taping it to it's proper location. Next double check all the traced hole locations and cut out locations as best you can against the actual door locations. Make any corrections required in pencil. Cut out the paper pattern and all the holes and the cutout areas.

Step #2 - Using 1/8" or 3/16" non-tempered hardboard transfer the paper pattern to the hardboard. I used 3/16" hardboard, but would use 1/8" if I had to do it again. This is because with all of the foam and upholstery, my doorhandles fit a bit too tight now. After you've transferred the pattern to the hardboard, cut out the panel using a scrolling jig say and an electric drill with the correct size bit. Check the bit size against the holes in the door metal. A dremel tool is also hand for some of the hole shaping requirements. Finish the holes and cutouts with a file and 80 grit paper.

PICTURES #5 AND #6 Step #1 - Check the fit of the fiberglass resin molded new arm rest form to ensure that it fits freely, but not sloppy in the panel cut out for its location. Fit it through from the back of the panel so that the flange is flush to the panel's back surface. So trimming of the flange, filing or sanding of the form, or filing of the panel opening may be required. You want it to fit without binding and without being sloppy and loose. Take care to trim the flange as required to allow the stainless trim molding to fit through their locator and fastening hole. It may be required to redrill the locator holes through the flange after the flange is permanently fastened. Drill 1/8" holes evenly through the panel and armrest flange starting at the two end corners and continuing ever 3 to 4 inches. After the first 2 corner holes are drilled, realign the armrest form flange to the panel and use aluminum pop rivets to secure the armrest to the panel before drilling the rest of the holes. Once your first two holes are drilled and riveted then continue drilling and periodically riveting until complete.

Step #2 - Again using the original door panel as a reference guide, determine the underlayment locations, size and shape for the foam you'll need to pre-pad with. Visit your upholstery supply store to choose the most suitable material and thickness materials. You might want to first use Kraft paper to pattern your padding size and shape as well as duplicating the original panels padding locations and thickness. Now having measured and traced your patterns on the foam stock, cut the thin foam pieces and trim to size. Use an upholstery contact spray glue to adhere the foam to the hardboard panel.

Step #3 - Now use a foam that has a somewhat stretchy fabric top layer that will enable the foam to be stretched over the curved and rounded armrest form. Cut a large enough piece of this fabric covered foam to ensure complete coverage. The foam can be adhered with spray contact glue and the base perimeter trimmed with scissors and knife after the glue is dry.

PICTURE #7 Step #1 - Fasten the panel to the door and secure it with all its fasteners except the panel wire clips. Set the panel in the bottom hanger tray, align the screw holes and fit on the door to window vinyl clad metal trim piece also attaching it with its screws. You should have now a finished product that merely requires the final upholstering either by yourself, or as in my case by my favorite shop down the street. The shop charged me $80.00 including the vinyl upholstery material for the job. I think he went easy on me because he was impressed at the job I'd done manufacturing the panels.

Step #2 - OK, hold it you're not off to the upholstery shop quite yet. You still need to final check all of the holes for the stainless trim and actually fit the trim sections to the door. Also you need to double check all of the wire panel clip holes that will need to precisely match the clips and holes in the door when you do the final install. At this time, if you haven't already done so, is the time to match the armrest metal grip cups to the brackets mounted on the door and drill the holes that will accept the two # 10 Phillips dress screws.

PICTURE #8 The final product with many more of your hours and about $125 including your total supplies and the shop's cost is now ready for mounting. But first you'll have to make a decision as to whether you're going to purchase the Kraft oil paper door to panel seals or make your own out of the same material you can buy at a builder's supply store in a 50 foot roll for $4.00. You may in addition to the Kraft oil paper seal want to consider using some duct tape to first seal off some of the larger holes in the door to keep dust, moisture and sound where it belongs. The actual Kraft oil paper seals are relatively small and only cover the large bottom window access opening.

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